Second-Hand Clothing in Kenya: A Thriving Industry Under Pressure

(3 Minutes Read)

Each year, around 30 per cent of donated clothing sent to developing nations in the Global South of the world ends up in landfills or floods local markets, displacing local production. A recent study by the Changing Markets

Kenya’s second-hand clothing trade generates billions of dollars and employs millions, making the country Africa’s top importer of used garments. Yet, despite its rapid growth, this industry faces increasing regulatory and environmental challenges.

Between economic opportunity and growing uncertainties, its future remains uncertain. Its expansion raises debates about its local impact and long-term sustainability.

Textile waste disposal markets are vital in Kenya. However, discarded dispatches coming from Western countries are responsible for turning the Global South into a textile dumping ground. Third of all second-hand clothing shipped to Kenya is plastic waste in disguise. The report by Changing Markets Foundation, Netherlands

Each year, around 30 per cent of donated clothing sent to developing nations in the Global South of the world ends up in landfills or floods local markets, displacing local production. A recent study by the Changing Markets Foundation based in the Netherlands has shed light on the severity of this issue in Kenya, where an estimated 900 million pieces of second-hand clothing are imported annually.

The majority of the clothing reaching Kenya’s territory is composed of synthetic fibres like polyester or is in such poor condition that it cannot be repurposed for donation. As a result, some of these garments are incinerated in landfills near Nairobi. This poses health risks to informal waste collectors due to the toxic fumes generated, or they eventually find their way into water bodies.

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When citizens of the Global North decide to get rid of a garment included in the ‘donate’ pile, it usually makes one feel good about recycling it rather than tossing it in the trash.   Around 40% of mitumba (send hand cloth) holds no market value and is essentially plastic textile waste disposal, with about two-thirds of it typically composed of synthetic fibres. Retailers of second-hand clothing in Kenya consider every mitumba purchase a gamble because they cannot predict how much of each bale can be resold and how much is worthless until they’ve opened and sorted through it.